The Square Life

Ready to Climb? Here Are Four Canyons Worth Exploring.

American Fork Canyon
Northbound on State Street turn right or east at 100 East in Pleasant Grove (at Purple Turtle restaurant). Follow this road north until it forks right or left at 11000 North in Highland. Turn right, it is the mouth of the canyon.
This rugged limestone canyon is great for shaded climbs, all day long, and has hundreds of diverse routes ranging from 5.7-5.14, and 30-100 feet long. There are only two 5.7 climbs (the easy ones), a couple of 5.8 and 5.9s, most of the climbs are 5.10 or greater. Hell’s Cave has over 20 climbs at 5.13. However, these climbs are not for the novice. While sandstone just gives you road rash, this limestone will cut you up a bit.

Maple Canyon
Exit 225 at Nephi drive east on Utah Highway 132 for 14 miles to Fountain Green. Turn right, or west at the Maple Canyon sign. This road turns into Freedom Road and goes past turkey farms. Turn right or west on a narrow road with an abandoned house on the corner. A half mile up is the sign for Maple Canyon on the right.
The conglomerate rock with countless numbers of handholds is unique in Utah. It takes a minute to get used to this rock, with the potato-like holds. The climbing is varied for all levels, 5.7-5.13. With four main areas, low traffic, and shade all day, and a campground (bathrooms, no water), this is a great escape of only 70 miles south of Provo.

Rock Canyon
2200 North, in Provo, turns into North Temple Drive, follow it east to the parking lot.
This canyon has both limestone and quartzite rock. Offers not only complete sun exposure all day, most of the climbs can be top roped. Good for beginners at Red Slab, at the mouth of canyon, and for experts farther up 5.13. Highly crowded and close enough to both schools, with short approach to the climbs. You have to be wary of the novice bonehead, who knows just enough to get themselves killed, but not enough to actually make the climb

Big Cottonwood Canyon
I-15 to I-215 eastbound get off at exit 6 (6200 South). Follow the signs for the ski areas. Go east up Wasatch Blvd. Turn east at Ft. Union Blvd (7200 South) Turn east up the canyon.
Hundreds of quartzite climbs dot the canyon walls. Shade or sun is offered all day long for climbers of any stamina. There are a few 5.6 climbs for beginners, or 5.13 for the not-so-novice. Big Cottonwood also offers plenty of traditional climbing and multi-pitch. There’s not much top roping, however, but there is a greater variety of climbing levels.